We decided to make a special present for our teachers at school. One of the teachers really loved alligators.
Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please read our disclaimer.
So we set out to make one out of wood. First we cut the wood into the rough shape of the toy.
Next drilled the wood that we cut. We cut lots of little pieces so the tail could move and each needed a hole drilled.
To smooth the edges we used a wood plane. Then we sanded each piece with fine grain sandpaper. For the details on the head we made rough cuts using an alligator saw then sanded repeated to get the shape we wanted.
We laid out the final design before threading the wire through the holes we drilled.
Here we are threading the wire though the holes. We used pipe cleaners to get a snug fit. This will make the toy alligator flexible but will also hold its shape well.
With all the potion-making we have been doing recently, we found that we needed a place to put our potion supplies on the go, so we made a potion cabinet fit for the experts of potion-making. Professor Slughorn’s portable potions kit was the main inspiration for this creation.
Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please read our disclaimer.
Getting started
We used the following supplies; a hammer, a saw, four 90-degree angle clamps, black paint, blue paint, mahogany-colored wood stain,
Using clamps to get a tight fit
The core of the cabinet is the frames. These carry the weight of the bottles and hold the cabinet’s shape. To make the frames, we cut the beams into 12 inches and glued them together, using the 90-degree angle clamps for making a strong right angle.
Getting the pieces ready for assembling.
All the sides and frames are ready for assembly. All pieces need to be cut out before you start assembling to make sure that you don’t forget a piece.
Gluing the pieces together.
We ran a bead of glue on all the edges of the frames. We made sure to only put a little glue to prevent sliding.
Clamping the cabinet together.
Then we use clamps to firmly secure the sides to the frame.
Hammering in nails for support.
Once we were sure the glue had dried we went on to the next steps. For added strength, we put in a few thin nails on the bottom and sides.
Measuring the box for the shelf.
We measured for the interior shelf after we put the cabinet together to make sure we have a snug fit.
Cutting the corners of the shelf.
Next we cut out slots on all the corners so the shelf following the outside of the line then sanded to fit the cabinet.
Attaching the handle to the top.
Finally, we added a handle on top to make transportation easier. Since the outside plywood was thin to make the cabinet light, we added an extra piece of wood underneath to secure the handle. we used thin screws so we don’t split the extra piece of wood.
The fully assembled cabinet.
Here is the assembled cabinet ready for staining and painting. We are looking for a vintage look so we need to do multiple layers and light distressing.
We stained the cabinet and left it outside to dry. The shelf and front were stained separately to make sure that we got the stain in all the nooks and crannies.
Adding wax circles on the top of the cabinet.
We used candles to make wax circles around the cabinet. We do this because when we paint it, the paint on the wax would peel off, creating a distressed look.
Painting the cabinet.Sanding some of the paint off.
Then, we mixed the black paint and the blue paint, creating a dark blue, and painted the cabinet. We used dark blue because when black paint gets old, it looks like dark blue.
We lightly sanded the painted wood, showing the stain underneath. We can repeat this process to get the aged look that we desired. Here is a view of the completed potion cabinet with the vintage finish.
Photo with the cabinet door.
Here is a view with the case close for safe transportation!
The door closed.
Here is the completed potion cabinet with a vintage finish.
This project is about how to build a ladder-like bookcase. This bookcase has less room because its sides slope in towards the top but fit well into small spaces and is very sturdy, a perfect place for books! This design was inspired by a model designed by Vico Magistretti.
Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please read our disclaimer.
All the Supplies Laid Out
First, you get all the materials:
2 clamps
a bottle of wood glue
5 48 X 3.5 X .5 inch wood planks (we used reclaimed wood)
4 36 X 5/8 inch Oak Dowel Rods
4 48X 2 X 3/4 inch cheery wooden boards
a saw
sandpaper ( Course and fine grit)
drill
3/4 inch bit
4 MDF Wood Board 6x8x.0785
Wood Stapler
No Screws or nails!
Measuring carefully
Now you can begin. First, on the 48X 2 X 3/4 inch cherry beam make a straight line one inch from the top. This you will line up with the edge of the circular saw.
Cutting carefully
Next, you cut a twenty-degree angle so that the tip touches the corner.
Our Japanese saw in good use
Then, if there is access cut it off while not impacting the angle.
Measuring again
Then, you make dots 11 inches apart in the center of the 48X 2 X 3/4 inch cherry beams.
Clamping wood to align drilling
Next, you clamp both pieces of wood together, to make drilling more accurate.
Drilling carefully
Then, you drill a hole on all the dots while keeping the wood clamped together.
All the holes align!
Then, put them aside to use later.
Planning out the next steps
Then, mark 3 of the 48 by 3.5 by 0.5-inch wooden boards at 22 inches.
Measuring the support
Next, measure a 36 X 5/8 inch pole and mark it at fifteen inches.
Cutting the support poles
Then, cut the pole at your mark, repeat 9 times. if the pole is too wide for your hole, sand it, if it is too thin, then wedge some pieces of wood between the pole and the hole.
Almost assembled!
Next, stick the poles in the holes that you drilled so that it looks like this. After that, put the other two wood beams on the other side as well. Make sure not to alternate.
Measuring the shevles
Nearly done, mark the other three 48 X 3.5 X .5 inch boards at 30 inches each.
Clamping the shelves for cutting
Finally, clamp all three of the boards together. Then, cut them at 30 inches while keeping them clamped, and remember to use both sides for shelves.
Cutting the shelves
Congratulations, you’re Ladder bookcase is complete, Happy Crafting!
Finished!
The finished shelves was quickly put into use for storing our large StaTrek fiction and RPG book collection.
The Hip Monster’s sister team has created DIY instructions for a pump drill. Pump drills are ancient tools used by many cultures including Native Americans. The sisters got the idea from seeing pump drills made by the Miwok tribe who are native to California.
Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please read our disclaimer.
Supplies
Equipment:
saw
drill
spade drill bit ~1 inch
drill bit 1/8 inch
spokeshave
sandpaper
string
bee’s wax
three long, straight branches
Branches:
1) shaft: the centerpiece of the pump drill. Look for a long, straight, and thin piece of wood.
2) spindle whorl: Attached near the tip of the shaft and makes the drill rewind. This piece should be heavy and thick enough the shaft can go through it.
3) handle: What you hold onto. This piece should be just thick enough for the shaft to go through.
First, you pick out three straight pieces of wood, one long and skinny, and the other two thick. Make sure the handle and the spindle ones are thick enough for the shaft to go through. Cut off the extra parts making sure to leave a bit extra on each end.
This se should look like this. The extra inch on each side of the sticks are so you can secure them to a vice for shaving.
The first one will be the spindle, the second the handle, and the last the shaft.
Next, spokeshave the pieces to make them smooth. Be very careful while spoke shaving you don’t want to make any of the pieces too thin or curved. Continuously flip the piece over to get to make all the sides even. Sometime when there is a knot or we accidentally cut into the wood an adult can help smooth it out.
For the main shaft spokeshave till it is as straight as possible. To find out which side to shave roll the stick on a table and see which part is bent up. For the handle and spindle, you just need to get the bark off.
Now cut the piece to the right size. Make sure the thin one is the longest. Measure out the right size before you cut it.
Sand the pieces to make them really smooth. Spend more effort on the shaft. Remember, the shaft needs to be smooth and straight for the pump drill to work. They should look like this when done.
Drill the holes in the two thick pieces. The with of the holes should be a bit bigger than the diameter of the shaft. When drilling, go slowly to avoid splitting. Make sure you drill in the middle of the wood.
When done you should have two big holes in the large pieces big enough for the shaft.
For drilling hole likes these where the edge of the drill bit comes close to the vice we let an adult do the final set up and test.
After you have drilled all the holes apply bee’s wax. The bee’s wax makes them smooth and help avoid splitting.
To apply the bee’s wax use an old towel. Since bee’s wax does not go bad we use the same rag repeated for other projects.
Drill two holes at the tip of the shaft the same width as the string you will be using. Measure the string and put the string through it.
Now drill holes at both ends of the handle. Make sure the hole is in the same direction as the shaft hole.
Next, assemble the pump drill by sliding the shaft through the handle.
Then loop the string through the two holes you drilled in the handle.
Adjust the string so that the center stick if a little less than halfway down the pole. Then tied knots on both ends of the string.
Now slide the spindle onto the shaft.
Use a thin board of wood like the one shown in the photo and break off a strip.
Wedge the strip of wood in the gap to make the fit tight. Add more strips of wood as needed. The spindle should not be able to move.
And finally cut a slot at the end of the shaft by cutting two parallel cuts. Then use a chisel to clean up the notch. Secure a sharp stone shaped like an arrow tip with string.
Yay! You finished!
Now you have a pump drill.
You use the drill by first winding it up. Then gently push down on the handle. Let the string rewind itself (thanks to the spindle whorl). Do not push the stick up but let the pump drill wind back then, again, gently push down.
Every wand we craft has unique mythos and a special spell. This wand is called the Flame Tamer.
Mythos
Flame Tamer was created on a hot sunny day which gave its power to control fire.
Special Spell
Control fire.
First, create a circle of fire. Then speak the incantation:
ignis coercere
While waving the wand in a circle then thrusting the wand through toward the flames. Focus your mind on an animal, like a hawk or a wolf, that you are most aligned with. The fire will assume the shape of that animal and will obey your commands.
It is 16 inches long. This wand was made from pine and was soaked in rose petals and red clay. it was spoke shaved with a small bend in the middle.
Every wand we craft has unique mythos and a special spell. This wand is called the Scarlet Sunset.
Mythos
Scarlet Sunset was crafted as the sun was setting so its magic is strongest at night. For difficult spells, it is recommended to wait till a new moon. It plays well with fire and can even use fire as a healing energy to cure people and creatures.
Special Spell
Incendium Purgatio (Fire purification)
It is 14 3/4 inches long. Made of poplar grown in the Hip Monster’s realm. The wood was spoke shaven straight, soaked in oil with a rosemary and chives blend then polished with bee’s wax.
Every wand we craft has unique mythos and a special spell. This wand is called the Night View.
Mythos
The wand Night View has a darker side. Made of poplar and dyed in dark herbs she is ready for night time adventures!.
Special Spell
Noctem Visus (Night Vision)
It is 13 1/2 inches long. Made of poplar grown in the Hip Monster’s realm. The wood was spoke shaven straight, soaked in oil with a blueberries and mint blend then polished with bee’s wax.
Inspired by our trips to Hawaii, the sisters team decided to make their own working ukulele. We ended up making a whole lot of them because it is a good way to practice some woodworking skills. We advise using wood that isn’t to hard for the sides, because that makes drilling the center hole a lot easier.
We are missing some photos between the required supplies and the final clamping- sorry.
Clamping the front and back together
After lots of cutting and drilling, we clamped the front and back together. We used a big drill bit to drill the center hole after measuring for the right spot. Make sure that you don’t put two keyholes directly on top of each other, leave room for the strings to go down.
Ready for painting
We put the keys in and glued the bridge on. We double-checked out measurements a lot so the strings would all align. We also made sure to sand it a lot, you don’t want to get a splinter while playing music.
Top ViewClose up of the end with the bridge
(The keys and bridge came from a set ordered online)
Painted in a color scheme with sparkly paint
Here is an indestructible ukulele capable of fending off a troll. Made from poplar and bound together with the magic of the ages, its music will impress even fairies.
This puzzle box was inspired by Roy Underhill’s Woodwright Shop. Based on an early American grease pot design it is crafted out of poplar. It measures 8 inches by 3 inches, just big enough to hide special jewels or a secret treasure.
Puzzle Box
The clean dove tail is essential to making this puzzle box work. Ideally you want to use a harder would that you used for the box.
Dovetail close up
Measuring a dovetail
Use a chisel to measure the width of a dovetail. Cut two sets of parallel line and remove the outer edges,
Cutting the lid and lock.
Make use to secure the wood and cut very slowly to get a clean cut. If using a Japanese saw let the weight of the saw do the cutting,
Drill a hole after cutting off the lid to help align the pieces better.
We tried drilling the hole before cutting and found out the pieces did not align tightly. Even a thin blade takes a lot of material from a piece of wood.
Finished box
Remember to carve out the dovetail before cutting the lid and lock. Be prepared to make mistakes- that is all part of the process. For the locking slider make sure it is angled to secure the lid. We made that mistake more than once. We used the mistake in other projects.
Fully opened
To make the dove tail pop we typically use a darker stain. It make it harder to unlock, you can painted the whole piece to hide the locking mechanism.
When the sisters team discovered Transform comics (Go WindBlade!) they wanted a whole city of Transformers to play with. While that was way too expensive they could build their own ShapeShifting Robots out of wood.
Getting Started
Borrowing for wooden dolls we settled on a design with rubber bands attaching the arms and head to the body and a bolt to attached the legs enabling the robot to shift forms.
Drilling to holes
First we cut and drilled all the wood based on a working design.
Assembling Begins!
We used lego wheels for the robots that transformed into cars.
Fitting the rubber bands
Attaching the rubber bands proved difficult. We used a jewelry tool to thread the rubber bands through the holes in the wood (many broke in the process).
Final Touches
A few more adjustments.
The Robot is complete!
By using springs in the legs the robot can hold a standing position.
The assembly line
After we perfect a design it was just a matter of creating a assembly line to crank out droids!
We laid out the final design before threading the wire through the holes we drilled.
