Please note, that this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please read our disclaimer.
This quick creation was inspired by Pinkie Pie from My Little Pony. We love Pinkie Pie’s bright outlook and humor! When we found a scrape of bright colored faux fur in our recycled fabric box we all thought of her right away.
We used balsa wood for the body and faux fur for the mane. It took a while to carve since ponies have a specific body shape. We first drew the basic outline on the balsa wood then cut out the rough shape with a saw. To make sure we did not damage the wood we wrapped it in leather when it was in the vice. Then we used wood carving tools and sand paper to finish the shape. The head was the hardest part to get right. Ponies have a very specific look to them. We used a wood carving tool with a groove to get the fur just right.
The mane was stapled on to the body then pulled over to cover up the staples. To give it a bright color we used a red wood dye. The dye also showed off the pony’s carved fur.
After a quick comb our little pony was ready to roam the world!
This is our wooden deer sculpture, made as a Christmas present. We only used wood from our yard to make it more meaningful. We always save leftover wood, so we can use it in our woodworking projects instead of wasting it.
This is the back view of the deer. As you can see, we attached the tail, limbs and antlers by drilling holes and fitting them into the holes, like a peg. We attached the head and the neck by drilling a smaller hole inside the neck and the body, then used a strong piece of aluminium wire to connect them together. To make the tail look more realistic, we rounded the end of it and drilled the hole at an angle instead of straight down.
The head was made from sanding part of a tree branch. We chose that branch because it already looked like a deer head, so we didn’t have to work on it very much. It even had little indents for the eyes! All we had to do was sand it, trim the ears, and drill two small holes for the antlers.
We attached the antlers of the deer by taking small branches from our birch tree and putting them in the holes that we drilled on the head. The antlers were very important because it would help people recognize this as a deer. We had to find branches that were strong so they won’t break, but small enough to look realistic. Luckily, birch trees shed a lot of branches, so it wasn’t too hard to find perfect branches.
It was the end of the school year and we want to make a toy for one of our teachers. She loved bunnies and Beatrice Potter, so we thought that we should make her a toy bunny.
First, we drew a design for the toy bunny. We wanted it to be able to move its legs and ears so the design had to have a lot of details. It make sure it could more we used balsa wood for most of the parts to the bunny put together with nuts and bolts.
Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please read our disclaimer.
Here is a picture of us cutting the wood. We had to use a fine saw because the balsa wood split with the Japanese saw.
Next, we drilled holes for the nuts and bolts. We don’t use wood screws because over time they loosen and damage the wood if the toy is played with it. To drill the holes we used a bench press and a secured the wood carefully. Because Balsa wood is so soft, it couldn’t be hand drilled.
After all the parts were cut, drilled, and sanded it was time to assemble!
If the plans are good enough, once you have the pieces done, it is like assembling a puzzle!
We made the ears out of plastic because the wooden ears broke too easily. We could also easily cut the plastic to be whatever shape we want.
To finish it off we added a purple pompom for a tail. And here is the completed bunny with a scarf!
Because it is posable, you can change how it looks year round!
After building a number of dovetail puzzle boxes the HipMonsters sister team set out to make their own unique design. We explored many designs and drew influence from creations like this one on YouTube. The sisters wanted something that looked deceptively simple and easy to make. Thus was born Push My Button!
Please note, this material is provided for entertainment and informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please read our disclaimer.
Here is Push My Button from side view. The sides of the box are made from a several of 1/4 wooden square dowels. These are our go-to material for many of our designs.
The top, sides and bottom are made from 1/8 inch plywood.
Here is a view of a corner. We purposely made it look slapped together to confuse people. The lopsided look makes it appear that the sides of bottom can be slipped off – which cannot be done.
But the key to opening Push My Button to to press the correct button… but which one? We added spacers between some of the dowels and aligned them irregularly to make harder to tell which one is the key.
When we give it as a gift, we usually leave earrings or chocolate inside to reward the receiver once them uncover the trick.
We wanted to give people a scare on Halloween and was inspired by a visit to Rosicrucian Egyptian Museum so we set out to make our own mummy, George the mummy (he got too curious).
Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please read our disclaimer.
For the mummy, we used:
A roll of burlap fabric
Lots of brown shipping paper
Chicken wire
Aluminum fense wire
5 1/4×1/4X 5 Wood
Twine
nuts and bolts.
We needed it to be pretty light so we didn’t use a lot of wood and padded the skeleton with lots of shipping paper. We had been storing the shipping paper for years and had bags of it in a closet for just such a project. It is perfect because it looks like old dried skin!
We wanted George to be flexible so we could place him through out the house and even take him on car trips.
This is one of the joints that we made. George is fully articulate but not powered like our robots.
We cut small pieces of the wood off to make it more rounded then sanded the edges to get a clean joint. Since these joints would not be seen we used only rough grade sandpaper.
We drilled holes in the joints so that we could put them together. To drill the holes we clamped the two pieces together to assure the holes would align.
We used a rubber washer between the two pieces so George would not be too wobbly. After screwing the bolts down we crimped end to make sure they would not come undone after George was finished.
We used chicken wire to start making the shape of the head. The chicken wire was so sharp so we had to be extra careful not to cut ourselves. Best to let a parent do this part. One trick we used was to warp the end pieces in duck tape to make them less pocky.
We molded the head into shape. We recomend wearing thick gardening gloves because the chicken wire is very sharp.
We wrapped it in paper to make it less sharp and because the paper looks like dry skin. The paper alos helps makes the linbs more circlular.
The head fully wrapped in paper.
We secured the paper by tightly wrapping it in twine. we used twine because it is strong, but also because it is the same color as the paper, so if a little shows it would blend in with the paper.
We wrapped it up in burlap after we finished securing the paper. We did several layers so it wouldn’t come off and towards the end split the burlap into multiple strips
After the head was done it was on to the rest of the body. The wooden skeleton we made as simple ae possible and used bolts and bolts with crimp washers to make sure it would not come loose after the wrapping for completed.
Now assemble the skeleton and wrap the body in the same fashion as the head. Wrapping the hands and feet proved to be very hard, and we ended up not making wooden fingers, we just wrapped the arm and secured the ends.
Here is the completed skeleton fully covered in paper and tied together with twine. We needed to remove the final wrapping from the head in order to better integrate it to the body. Also, we tried using left over hand from out Hand of Glory project but in the end, they did not look as real as we want.
Now you can see George out of the workshop! We originally tried to make him be able to stand up on his own, but that would mean either making the body weirdly small or making the feet gigantic. We ended up attaching him to a lamp post instead.
In this photo, George is sitting on a stationary bicycle. This shows off how George’s limbs can move and that he can be detached from the lamppost. It also shows that George is about the same size as a normal human, which makes him more realistic and creepy.
In this video, George is taking down Christmas decorations with Number Three, showing off how well he stands and how much he enjoys wearing hats. He is also sturdy enough to hold Christmas tree ornaments without his arm bending.
We decided to make a special present for our teachers at school. One of the teachers really loved alligators, so we decided to make one for her out of wood.
Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please read our disclaimer.
So we set out to make one out of wood. First we cut the wood into the rough shape of the toy.
Next, We drilled the wood that we cut. We cut lots of little pieces so the tail could move. We also drilled a small hole in the center of each small piece.
To smooth the edges we used a wood plane. Then we sanded each piece with fine grain sandpaper. For the details on the head we made rough cuts using an alligator saw then sanded repeated to get the shape we wanted.
We laid out the final design before threading the wire through the holes we drilled.
Here we are threading the wire though the holes. We used pipe cleaners to get a snug fit. This will make the toy alligator flexible but will also hold its shape well.
The Hip Monsters team decided to make something that interests people when they walk into the room. Inspired by Girl Genius. and this SteamPunk creation, we made a mysterious steampunk device that only we know the use of.
This is our steampunk creation. It has two light bulbs, a pressure gauge, and some metal pipes. The light bulbs’ brightness is adjustable.
This is the side view of our device. You can see that on the side of the creation, there is a silver metal box. That controls the brightness of the lightbulbs.
On the back, you can see that there is a wire going from the silver box away from the device. that is where you plug in the device to the outlet. From the front it is barely noticeable, you can only see it from certain angles.
With all the potion-making we have been doing recently, we found that we needed a place to put our potion supplies on the go, so we made a potion cabinet fit for the experts of potion-making. Professor Slughorn’s portable potions kit was the main inspiration for this creation.
Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please read our disclaimer.
We used the following supplies; a hammer, a saw, four 90-degree angle clamps, black paint, blue paint, mahogany-colored wood stain,
The core of the cabinet is the frames. These carry the weight of the bottles and hold the cabinet’s shape. To make the frames, we cut the beams into 12 inches and glued them together, using the 90-degree angle clamps for making a strong right angle.
All the sides and frames are ready for assembly. All pieces need to be cut out before you start assembling to make sure that you don’t forget a piece.
We ran a bead of glue on all the edges of the frames. We made sure to only put a little glue to prevent sliding.
Then we use clamps to firmly secure the sides to the frame.
Once we were sure the glue had dried we went on to the next steps. For added strength, we put in a few thin nails on the bottom and sides.
We measured for the interior shelf after we put the cabinet together to make sure we have a snug fit.
Next we cut out slots on all the corners so the shelf following the outside of the line then sanded to fit the cabinet.
Finally, we added a handle on top to make transportation easier. Since the outside plywood was thin to make the cabinet light, we added an extra piece of wood underneath to secure the handle. we used thin screws so we don’t split the extra piece of wood.
Here is the assembled cabinet ready for staining and painting. We are looking for a vintage look so we need to do multiple layers and light distressing.
We stained the cabinet and left it outside to dry. The shelf and front were stained separately to make sure that we got the stain in all the nooks and crannies.
We used candles to make wax circles around the cabinet. We do this because when we paint it, the paint on the wax would peel off, creating a distressed look.
Then, we mixed the black paint and the blue paint, creating a dark blue, and painted the cabinet. We used dark blue because when black paint gets old, it looks like dark blue.
We lightly sanded the painted wood, showing the stain underneath. We can repeat this process to get the aged look that we desired. Here is a view of the completed potion cabinet with the vintage finish.
Here is a view with the case close for safe transportation!
Here is the completed potion cabinet with a vintage finish.
This project is about how to build a ladder-like bookcase. This bookcase has less room because its sides slope in towards the top but fit well into small spaces and is very sturdy, a perfect place for books! This design was inspired by a model designed by Vico Magistretti.
Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please read our disclaimer.
First, you get all the materials:
2 clamps
a bottle of wood glue
5 48 X 3.5 X .5 inch wood planks (we used reclaimed wood)
4 36 X 5/8 inch Oak Dowel Rods
4 48X 2 X 3/4 inch cheery wooden boards
a saw
sandpaper ( Course and fine grit)
drill
3/4 inch bit
4 MDF Wood Board 6x8x.0785
Wood Stapler
No Screws or nails!
Now you can begin. First, on the 48X 2 X 3/4 inch cherry beam make a straight line one inch from the top. This you will line up with the edge of the circular saw.
Next, you cut a twenty-degree angle so that the tip touches the corner.
Then, if there is access cut it off while not impacting the angle.
Then, you make dots 11 inches apart in the center of the 48X 2 X 3/4 inch cherry beams.
Next, you clamp both pieces of wood together, to make drilling more accurate.
Then, you drill a hole on all the dots while keeping the wood clamped together.
Put them aside to use later.
Then, mark 3 of the 48 by 3.5 by 0.5-inch wooden boards at 22 inches.
Next, measure a 36 X 5/8 inch pole and mark it at fifteen inches.
Then, cut the pole at your mark, repeat 9 times. if the pole is too wide for your hole, sand it, if it is too thin, then wedge some pieces of wood between the pole and the hole.
Next, stick the poles in the holes that you drilled so that it looks like this. After that, put the other two wood beams on the other side as well. Make sure not to alternate.
Nearly done, mark the other three 48 X 3.5 X .5 inch boards at 30 inches each.
Finally, clamp all three of the boards together. Then, cut them at 30 inches while keeping them clamped, and remember to use both sides for shelves.
Clamp the shelves together while sawing to make it much easier.
Now you have a amazing ladder bookcase! The finished shelves was quickly put into use for storing our large StarTrek fiction and RPG book collection.
Born from one of our favorite bushes and a failed costume, Lin the dragon was our most complex monster at that time.
Lin has posable legs, tail and wings. The legs can barely support her so we decided to hang her from the ceiling to watch over us as we craft.
The wings are from a dragon costume we were building that proved to be too heavy. The tail is made by repeatedly cutting the log and threading a steal wire through them to secure it.