SMASH: Stem Madness at Saratoga High

November 9, 2025November 26, 2025 Lutin

Members of the 6165 MSET Cuttlefish, the Saratoga High School FIRST robotics team, noticed tons of pumpkins get tossed after Halloween only to end up rotting in landfills, where they release greenhouse gases even more harmful than carbon dioxide. Since composting isn’t yet widespread in their area, the Cuttlefish decided to take action.

For the past two years, they’ve hosted SMASH: STEM Madness at Saratoga High, a fun, hands-on event where they smash pumpkins in creative ways to promote composting and environmental awareness, while also sparking interest in STEM. Last year, over 200 attendees smashed over 650 pounds of pumpkins!

This year the Hip Monster’s team presented. We had a lot of fun, met some wonderful people, and were very impressed by the Cuttlefish team!

It was a perfect day for a festival and the Saratoga High School is beautiful with tall trees scattered throughout the campus.

We brought Number Three and Number Eight. Here is a little girl using the touch sensor on Number Three.

And here is some adults trying out Number Three.

Here are the 6165 MSET Cuttlefish robots in action.

Kids loved having a second Halloween and several dressed up in their Halloween costumes.

They had vendors and activities, to make this festival more interactive. There were also booths for organizations, like the public library and several clubs in the school.

The main event, Pumpkin Smashing! People could pick out a pumpkin, weigh it, then wait for their pumpkin to be called for it to be smashed. You could also choose to carve the pumpkin. The person who chose the pumpkin gets to press the button themselves, making it a fun and interactive process.

Here is a pumpkin being smashed. There were many different smashing machines for different sizes pumpkins. Our favorite was a hydraulic sledge hammer with 20 pounds of crushing force.

If you live in the Bay Area, make sure to attend next year.

Hope you find inspiration!

Sensor Array Mounts Part Two

July 17, 2025July 17, 2025 Lutin

This is our working solution for making secure sensor array mounts for our robots. Because the first one failed, we made many changes based on what worked well and what didn’t.

Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please take a look at our disclaimer.

The Video below shows us making a model for the sensors.

Now we pour silicon over the clay model to make a model.

Once the silicon is dry we removed the clay model.

To get the metal finish we mix in brown dye and copper pounder into the resin then put it into the cast.

It you look closely you can see the resin flowing as it dries.

We carefully remove the resin from the molds.

‘A bit of light sanding finishes it off.

Now we attach the sensors.

Finically, Number Three has a stable sensor mount!

Happy creating!

Sensor Array Mounts Part One

July 10, 2025July 13, 2025 Lutin

To make a sensor array mount for the robot, we wanted to try using resin molds. This experiment did not work as intended, but we wanted to share how our experiment went and maybe find a use for the resin pieces in the future. Here is a link to our working solution.

Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please take a look at our disclaimer.

First, we laid out our basic design of the sensor array mount using square wooden dowels. Then we traced the design using a markers on a piece of plywood to help guide us later.

Next, we glued the dowels together using hot glue to create a frame. We made sure the joints were tight and leak proof so the resin wouldn’t spill out.

Then we glued the mold to the plywood and put an extra layer of hot glue on the outside. We lined everything with a mixture of one part vegetable oil and one part dish soap to help the resin would separate from the mold. Then we poured the resin into the mold.

We store the mold in a secure location making sure it was laying flat.

While the process did give us a cast, the mold had to be destroyed to get the resin out. The homemade releasing agent did not work, and caused the clear resin to turn green and oily. The design also ended up not aligning as well as we needed. For making resin molds, we recommend not using dish soap or vegetable oil because it will interfere with the resin’s color and make it oily and sticky even after it dries. However, it did make it easy to separate the resin from the mold. We also learned to not make the mold out of wood. Back to the drawing board!

Happy Creating!

Securing Wires on Number Two and Number Three

June 19, 2025July 13, 2025 Lutin

We take Number Two and Number Three on the road a lot. While we are now experts at rewiring them after a long road trip, we started testing new ways for securing wires while still letting kids see how the robots were put together. After many designs, we settled on using clear silicon pneumatic tubes. The tube protect and secure the wires but still allow people to see how the wires attach.

Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please take a look at our disclaimer.

This video shows us taping the wires.

This video is us splitting the clear tubes down the middle to fit in the wires.

This video shows the process of wrapping the wires in the tube.

This is the final result.

Happy Creating!

Number 2’s and Number 3’s New Legs

June 12, 2025July 13, 2025 Lutin

From last year’s Bay Area Maker Faire we learned a lot about what is the right and wrong way for our robots to move. Our first designs did not work well on the rough and uneven surfaces, and our bi-pedal design fell over before the gates even opened. From that experience, we have opted for a centaur design for the new legs, leveraging a more powerful engine, a collapsible design, and gears.

Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please take a look at our disclaimer.

The legs are more simple overall but still require a lot of parts. We moved to using hardwood for the critical components for its strength.

Our design changed a lot from the one at last year’s Maker Faire. First, each leg has two wheels connected to a axel. The motor turns the axel via a chain. The biggest change is the legs now fold and unfold to make transportation easier.

Here is a close up of the finished axel on the end of the leg with one of the gears.

Here is one of the leg connecters that allows the new legs to fold for travel. They can lock in place when the robots are standing or walking.

Here are the legs with the wheels attached.

Here is a close up of the chain with one of the pins almost removed.

Happy Creating!

Girl Genius Dingbot Robot Part One

April 24, 2025April 28, 2025 Lutin

We decided to finally make an attempt to build a Dingbot robot based on the girl genius web comics.

Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please take a look at our disclaimer.

Our design is based on the first BingBot, a small robot similar to a pocket watch. Below is a image of a GirlGeniusOnline Dingbat in action.

As the series continue she create a variety of different BingBots and even Wingbots.

After we have settled on a design on paper we like laying out all the components on our workbench and start visualizing how the pieces fit together and to make sure we have all the parts we need.

We made the design as small as possible but still fit all the electronics including a RaspberryPi Nano. We wanted the design to be a fully functioning computer. The idea was when it is not running about it can be used to play music or video games.

The front and back to the robot are plywood circles that will serve as bases for all the electronics. To make sure the two sides align, we clamped two pieces of plywood together and used coping saw. To smooth out any irregularities, clamped them together again and sanded them repeatedly.

We used 2 inch bolts to separate the front and back plates. The is the smallest width that will still be able to hold all of our electronics. After repeated measuring, we drilled the holes while they were still clamped. This assured the bolts would align. Since the bolts are part of the atheistic of the robots it is important to get the positions correct.

We used three nuts and four washers per bolts to acts as spacers. To keep the bolts from loosing we used lock bolts (which can prove difficult to put on) and a pneumatic tubing in between the top and bottom bolts. We have used pneumatic tubing as spacers before in our robot designs and it works great even after years of use.

Once the two plates were secured we cut a strip of plastic to seal the gap. We thought using the side to access the components would be a unique and useful design. Normally, we prefer to have most of the electronics exposed but dingbot has a clean and elegant design. We recommend testing your layout of a sheet of paper first before cutting the holes in the plastic.

After a few trial and error we managed to secure the plastic strip. The first one broke so the second time we heated it with a blow dry to make it more flexible.

Down the center of the robots is a wooden dowel which will server as the spine for the robots. The legs and arms will both be anchor to the spine.

Here is a bottom view showing the spine.

We are not 100 percent happy with how the plastic strip pops out but we will try applying low heat again and try and mold it into shape.

Although you cannot see them, the design fits a RaspberryPi Nano, two motors, h-bridges, tons of wiring and a battery neatly.

Next step is to design the legs! We are leaning towards a toy robot inspired design.

Happy creating!

Number Ten Gets A Screen

March 25, 2025July 13, 2025 Lutin

We have started upgrading all our robot to run the new RobotFreedom.AI framework. For Number Ten, the main missing piece was a screen. Some of our early designs were not built with a screen in mind and adapting the design has taken a few iterations.

Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please take a look at our disclaimer.

Here is a list of some materials and components used:

- 4 inch screen
- Wireless Keyboard
- Breadboard Jumper Wires
- Raspberry Pi 3
- Arduino
- Linear Actuator
- Motion Sensor
- L-Shaped Brackets
- 512 GB SD Card
- Robotics Software

Number Ten was a tricky design to fit a screen on and keep to its original design. After many attempts we settled on using a L-Bracket placed at the front the body to mount the screen.

Now we reassembled the legs onto the body. Number Ten was one of several experiments the Hip Monster’s sister team built to come up with the most unusual way to move a robot. The robot moves forward, left and right by sliding one foot forward. On the bottom of each foot is edge shaped gripers that provide traction when pushed against but slide when pushed forward.

The screen is light enough to only need a few attachments to hold it in place. For added support we used a wire at the top of the screen to keep it secure while moving. Number Ten has never fallen forward so we need less protection for the electronics and screens than some of out other designs.

Our we assemble the various components Number Ten will need. We recommend using a usb hub for the wireless keyboard dongle. If you have several robots you will want to reuse the keyboard and will need quick access to the dongle. Typically, once we settle on a final layout for the RaspberryPi it is in a secure but difficult to each place making removing the dongle difficult. For people with less than perfect eye sight we recommend using a magnifying glass and bright lights when connection the GPIO pin to the RaspberryPi.

And here is a quick video of Number Ten display screen working. It is a light weight version of our main display better suited for older RaspberryPis.

Happy creating!

Updates to RobotFreedom.AI

March 16, 2025March 22, 2025 Lutin

Since our last update at Maker Faire, we’ve made significant improvements to our robot lineup, focusing on increasing autonomy, human interactions and emotional expression. Core to this is our AI framework, RobotFreedom.AI now available on GitHub.

The design principle for our autonomous AIs ():

Runs completely locally on a RaspberryPi (no third-party API call out)
Has distinctive personalities based on the big 5 personality traits
Learns from interactions (initiated when in sleep mode)
Makes informed decisions based on a knowledge graph
Can carry on a conversation between themselves and with a human

To achieve this we used an Agentic AI framework rather than just tapping direction into a chat bot. By having a core AI that was designed to meet our specifics goals we had more control of its behavior and could also directly see how the AI worked in real-time which provide to be a great educational tool.

One of the key upgrades is the addition of machine learning algorithms, which enable the robots to learn from their interactions and adapt quickly adapt new situations. This allows them to become even more autonomous in their decision-making processes, making them more efficient and effective in completing tasks.

We’ve also made notable strides in expanding the robots’ interactive capabilities, incorporating features such as voice recognition, gesture control, and tactile feedback. These enhancements enable users to engage with the robots on a deeper level, fostering a more immersive and engaging experience.

Some of the specific updates include:

* Advanced sensor arrays for improved navigation and obstacle detection

* Enhanced machine learning algorithms for adaptive decision-making

* Voice recognition and speech-to-text capabilities

* Tactile feedback mechanisms for haptic interaction

These updates have significantly enhanced the robots’ autonomy, interactivity, and overall user experience. We’re excited to continue refining our designs and pushing the boundaries of what’s possible with robotics and AI.

We have been busy working on our next release of our robot software platform

Major features:

Robots can coordinate actions using web socket communication
Dedicated http server for each robot
Added Piper TTS for voice
Added Vosk for speech recognition
Added Ollama and LangChain for chat bot.
Improved random movement generator.
Tons of bug fixes
Improved debug mode
Low memory mode for RaspberryPis 1-3

Tested on OsX and RaspberryPi 1-5.

You can see our Robotic AI platform in action here.

Happy creating!

Arduino Robotic Controller Software Update

March 16, 2025July 13, 2025 Lutin

This post will help you write the code for the robotic controller. The RobotFreedom robots are controlled by two code bases. The first runs on a RaspberryPi and is written in Python. You can read more about it here. The second code base controls the movements and lights on the robot. It is written in C and runs on a Arduino. This article will get you started on developing with that code base. You can download it GitHub.

Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please take a look at our disclaimer.

The movement controller is designed to be light and simple compared to the main AI code-base and is ideal for a beginner. The focus is to provide an interface for a human or AI to control a robot’s moving components (arms, legs and wheels). We use a Arduino Mega Board because it has a plenty of digital pin to attach our components to. Below is an image of a Arduino Mega board.

Arduino’s can be controlled via serial communication through a USB port or you can code it to run independently. Our robotic walkers are controlled only by an Arduino. This project is intended to be controlled by an AI installed on a RaspberryPi.

The purpose of the program is to receive incoming messages and perform the requested action. For example ‘a’ means raise the left arm. When the program receives an ‘a’ command it sends a command to a H-Bridge which then send power to a linear actuator to raises the left arm.

To start, install the Arduino IDE on your preferred development OS. Linux, OXS and Windows is supported. You can get the code here.

Next, download the required library and copy them to your development folder.

– Adafruit_BusIO
– Adafruit_I2CDevice
– Adafruit-GFX-Library
– FastLED

Launch the Arduino IDE and from the menu bar select:
Sketch>Include Library>Add Zip Library…

Launch the Arduino IDE and from the menu bar select:

Sketch>Include Library>Add Zip Library…

Then point to one of the zip files you have downloaded. Repeat for each required library.

To open the project, double click on the movement_controller.ino file and the Arduino IDE should automatically launch. If it does not launch you can load the sketch by selecting File>Open then navigate to your project file.

Now choose a board type. When you connect your Arduino board it should be auto-detected by the IDE. For some brands you may have to manual select it from the combo box. For off-brand Arduino we recommend searching forums for the best match. Many specify incorrect boards in their descriptions.

Next select >Sketch>Verify Compile. At the bottom of the IDE a console will appear and provide a detailed log. If you missed any libraries you will receive an error message. Loading any required libraries and try again.

Once the code is compiled select sketch>upload to deploy your code.

Below is a list of the components the code can control:

– H-Bridge
– FastLED
– Linear Actuator

The image below is the wiring for the Arduino:

To test select Tools>Serial Monitor from the main menu. At the bottom of the IDE a new tab titled “Serial Monitor” will appear. From this console you can directly communicate with the Arduino.

In the console window type “5”. You should see a response from the Arduino in the console and if the LED is connected to the Arduino, it should turn white and flash in a circular pattern.

Your robotic controller is now complete. Now you can control your own robot!

Happy Creating!

Number Nine is Rewired

March 11, 2025July 13, 2025 Lutin

We are learning weight is everything when it comes to good performance from our robots. One of our best jumpers, Number Nine, used splicing connectors that had very useful push handles but were way too heavy for continued use.

Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please take a look at our disclaimer.

The old connectors were perfect when we were prototyping designs, but once we settled on a wiring diagram it was time to move on to the much lighter push-in designs. The video below is a sped up video of one of the Hip Monster’s sister team (age 13) rewiring Number Nine with the new connector:

And now for testing! Here is a video of Number Nine is back in action and ready for more upgrades:

Happy creating!