Number 2’s and Number 3’s New Legs

From last year’s Bay Area Maker Faire we learned a lot about what is the right and wrong way for our robots to move. Our first designs did not work well on the rough and uneven surfaces, and our bi-pedal design fell over before the gates even opened. From that experience, we have opted for a centaur design for the new legs, leveraging a more powerful engine, a collapsible design, and gears.

Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please take a look at our disclaimer.

The legs are more simple overall but still require a lot of parts. We moved to using hardwood for the critical components for its strength.

Our design changed a lot from the one at last year’s Maker Faire. First, each leg has two wheels connected to a axel. The motor turns the axel via a chain. The biggest change is the legs now fold and unfold to make transportation easier.

Here is a close up of the finished axel on the end of the leg with one of the gears.

Here is one of the leg connecters that allows the new legs to fold for travel. They can lock in place when the robots are standing or walking.

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Here are the legs with the wheels attached.

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Here is a close up of the chain with one of the pins almost removed.

 

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Happy Creating!

Shapeshifting Toy Robots Part 2

Here are some of our old creations that we forgot to post about. These are some of our wooden shapeshifting robots, inspired by Transformers.

Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please take a look at our disclaimer.

Making these do not require a lot of materials. you just need six rubber bands, four lego car wheels, and a small piece of wood.

First, measure and cut two small pieces of wood to be the outside of the car and the legs. Measure and drill two holes that the lego wheels will fit securely in. Make sure that you leave enough space in between the holes for the wheels to fit.

Attach two of the wheels and cut the piece to the right size. Repeat to make another leg, making sure that the wheels on both legs align.

Next, cut two arms and drill small holes in the top that can fit a rubber band.

Cut a small body out of wood that

Now time for assembly!

Here is one robots in alt mode.

 

Both robots transformed

Front view.

Happy Creating!

Wooden Graduation Hat Charms

Graduation time is upon us and what better way to celebrate than creating something fun. For this year’s celebration we are making wooden graduation hat charms. This design is straightforward and suitable for all ages.

Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please take a look at our disclaimer.

This first step is lots of cutting. We cut the tops of the hats from thin sheets of plywood. Cut each square to is 3/4th of an inch on both sides.

The bottom of the hats were cut from square bars that we spoke shaved into a circle 1/2 inch wide.

After cutting and spoke shaving, sand the tops and sides as smooth as possible using different grades of sand paper. To make the charms smooth enough to look like a real cloth hat will require a repeated sanding.

After the tops are well sanded, start sanding the bottoms.

To align the tops with the bottoms while glueing, we drew cross on the bottom of the circles and the squares. Align the crosses to center the circles.

We used a flat black water based paint and applied two coats.

Here are some of the hats with the final coat.

Next, attach the eye-hole screws to the top. The eye-hole screws will let people hang the charm.

We recommend starting a hole for the eye-hole screw by using a small jewelry drill or very thin nail to make screwing the screws in easier. However, you can also screw them in without using a starter hole.

Take your time putting in the screws. If they break off they can be very hard to get out. Make extra hats and practice on scrap wood first. The main trick is to go slow and use as little force as possible.

The tassels are made from golden thread and are the hardest part. To make a tassel, first lay down a few strings then lay a long string on top of them in the middle. Tie the long string to the middle of them, which will be the string that the tassels hang on. Finally, tie a short string near the top of the bunch to separate the tassel into two parts. Tassels can be very hard to make, and you might need lots of practice.

Now just tie the tassel to the eye-hole screws and you are done! You can also add a keyring onto the graduation hats to make them into a keychain.

Happy Creating!

 

Wood Carvings: Rabbit

Our workshop is littered with dismantled robots, failed contractions, forgotten monsters and lots of little wood cravings. This is an older carving of a rabbit that we found in a dusty corner. Like with many of our creations, we do not have photos of how it was made but typically we first cut a rough shape out using a Japanese saw. Once we got the basic form we used wood carving tools to get the details right. And then lots and lots of sanding.

Carved toy Bunny

The design was minimalistic rabbit inspired by ancient totems. We realized to capture a rabbit all you need is the rabbit’s ears and tail. Carved toy Bunny

A close up of the tail.

Carved toy Bunny

We craved the ears flat because many of our earlier raving ended up with broken ears.

Carved toy Bunny

This was a very rewarding and simple project.

Happy creating!

Wood Sculpture: Cat

This cute little wooden cat was a quick build from some leftover pieces. We wanted a simple toy that would be sturdy and easy to build, but would also look like a cat. All of the wood was harvested from our yard.

Wooden toy cat

For the tail and legs we like to keep the bark on to give it a rustic look. The texture would also look like fur.

Wooden toy cat

The head, tail and legs are attached using wire to make it poseable. To do this, we drill small holes in each on the limbs, and used the wire like a peg. There is no glue in the whole figurine.

Happy Creating!

Wand Making

At the beginning of the Covid pandemic, we wanted to create magic for ourselves and our friends and hone our wood crafting skills. After much debate, we settled on wand making.

Our yard in the San Francisco, CA has several trees and shrubs that require routine maintenance.  Over the years, we carefully trimmed and stored the best branches for future use. One of our more numerous shrubs is boxwood and we have a large birch tree which both provide great material for wand making.

Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please take a look at our disclaimer.

The three essential tools for wand making are:

Selecting the perfect branch can be hard and a lot depends on what sort of wand you are looking for. When selecting a branch to turn into a wand, make sure that it is not too green or too dry. Also, you want the branch’s width to be wider than you want at the start. Spokeshaving takes off more material than you would imagine. Straighter branches are easier, but we prefer ones that curve slightly to make the wand more interesting. Many pieces of wood also have natural handles that works great on the wand.

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When cutting the wand make sure to not cut it too short, once you start crafting the ends you may find you need to trim it a bit more.

Wooden cut for making wands

Once you have trimmed the branch it is time to prepare it for spokeshaving.

To prepare for spokeshaving the wands, cure them in a mixture of water, dishwasher soap, and a little oil. Soak them for at least two days depending on how dry the wood was to begin with. If the wood is too dry it can by difficult to charge and split when spokeshaving. After two days of soaking, take the wands out of the solution, wipe them dry and store them in a cool dry place for at least one day to dry out. If your wood starts out very wet, you should not soak the wood and instead leave it to dry out for a bit.

Our technique for wand making involves lots of spokeshaving to shape the wand. The best thing about spokeshaving is it is great for all ages. Kids as young at six can spokeshave simple branches and adults can find it very rewarding after a long day at work.

When spokeshaving make sure not to cut into the wood. This can happen if the blade is not aligned correctly or your use too aggressive of an angle. If you do cut into the wood, we recommend not trying to smooth out the grove with the spokeshave. Instead, use a craving tool to widen the grove before returning to spokeshaving, or use a rasp to smooth it out. When spoke shaving it is best to use as little strength as possible and get into a rhythm to make the tooling as consistent as possible.

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Once the wand is in the shape you want then move on to shaping the ends.

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After years of practice we find repeated passes with a spokeshave can get the tip to the shape we prefer. You can use a carving knife as well, but with harder wood it can require a lot more force.

Sanding a wooden wand

After you get the shape and look you want move onto sanding. For wands sanding is really important. The wand needs a well-finished, smooth surface or it just will not feel right. Use multiple grades of sandpaper starting with the lowest grade sandpaper and ending with the finest.

Using wood stain on wands

Once the wand has the feel you want start applying the stain. Make sure to apply the stain in an open and well ventilated space. Remember, staining your wands will take multiple days, so you need a place where the wands will be safe and protected from rain or harsh sun. We stain our wands outside under our porch.

Above is a long line of wands after staining. Since it can take weeks to complete one wand we usually have several in the works at a given time. We also sand the wand after staining them because staining can make the wood feel rougher. Sanding can also give the wands an older look.

Waxing a wooden wand

After the last coat of stain has dried, apply beeswax to add another layer of protection and to give it a well-used feel. You want to wand to feel old and magical. This can require multiple coats of beeswax applied over several days depending on the condition of the wood.

Polishing the wands

The last step is to polish the wand using a rag or a bit of leather. We found leather does a great job getting a well-worn, ancient looking patina.

Now your wands are ready for use and harness the magic within!

Happy creating!

A Selection of Wands

We make wands to relax and to practice our woodworking skills. The process usually involves spokeshaving, sanding, staining, and waxing the wood. We always use wood from our yard to make the wands extra unique. Here is a selection of some of our wands!

DIY Wooden Wands
This piece of wood had a handle that bends that was very difficult to spokeshave, but turned out very well. We stained it red and brown then sanded the wood for the marbled finish.
DIY Wood Wands

Unusual for us, this wand is made from bamboo. Instead of spokeshaving, we just sanded this wand to maintain the classic look of the bamboo. The black color of the wood is natural, not stained.

DIY Wooden wands

This wand is nice and strait. We spoke shaved it smooth and stained it mahogany to add a pop of color. This wand was also sanded to have a smooth finish.

Happy creating!

Carved Wooden Seals

These are old carvings that we forgot to post. We were inspired by the Chinese wax seals and wanted to practice wood carving, so we decided to make our own unique wooden seals.

Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please take a look at our disclaimer.

Chinese wax seals

Here are some of our favorite seals. Most were purchased at a little store in the middle of San Francisco’s China Town right off of post street.

Crafted WaxSeals AlligatorInspired by Claude the Alligator, we decided to make an alligator seal. Its tail curves behind it and opens its jaws wide. The stamp would go on the bottom.

Crafted WaxSeals Alligator

This is the side view, where is shows off its tiny feet. There is some texture on the tail to replicate an alligator’s scales. At first the tail was indicated with a shallow grove but the carving was hard to make out or we opted to cut a slot to highlight the tai more clearly.

Crafted WaxSeals, Cat

This is the other wooden seal, which is a cat. The cat is perched on top of a wooden column, with its tail curved down the side.

Crafted WaxSeals, Cat

This carving captures the shape of a cat, with its pointed ears and curved body. We tied a red string around its neck like a collar to add a pop of color.

At the bottom of the seal, we added a stamp. We made the stamp out of an eraser and carved on the ancient Chinese character for ocean.

Here are the two wooden seals together!

Happy Creating!

Cosplay Dragon Tail

One thing we have always been jealous of is tails. Cats and dogs flaunt them as they strut around waving them in the air. So when making our dragon costume, we wanted a moving dragon tail that seemed alive. Not a dead tail, but one that had a personality of its own.

We searched through our past builds and thought the joint work on our little wooden robots would do the job. We also so some cool designs on the web like this one.

Please note, this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please read our disclaimer.

Parts needed to build a cosplay, wooden, flexible tail.

This build just needed some wood, bolts, wood glue, rubber bands and lots of duct tape.

sistering two wooden dowels

Since we wanted the tail segments to interlocked, we glued two pieces of 2X2 wooden dowels together. Be careful not to put too much wooden glue, it just needs a thin coat. Make sure to give it two days to dry, you don’t want it to come apart when you start cutting.

measuring wooded dowels

Measure out the segments carefully. You can vary the lengths depending on what look you are going for. We went with four inches length on the top part and one inch slots on the backside.

Here is a view of the final design. Each segment will have the same “hat” shape.

a cosplay, wooden, flexible tail.

Each hat will fit together in an alternation pattern. We tried making the segment in “z-shape” but it did not move as organically as the “hat-shape”.

Drill press

After carefully measuring, we used our drill press to drill the holes. Try to make a tight fit for the bolts. If the holes are too big, the tail may stick over time as the bolt cuts into the wood.

Making a cosplay, wooden, flexible tail.

Now it is time to assemble! It fits together like puzzle pieces. Make sure to put bees wax on the segments to protect the wood.

Create a base for a tail

Now on to the belt for the dragon tail. To create a base for the tail, we used cardboard and high grade duct tape. An earlier build with standard duct tape did not last very long. First cut out a piece of cardboard about 5 by 8 to help guide you as you “weave” the duct tape. The cardboard does not provide any real support but just helps you remember the shape. The bigger the base, the more stable the tail will be.

creating a base for a tail

Weave strips of duct tape alternating between vertical and horizontal directions. You want to use several layer, enough that it can support the tail.

creating a base for a tail

Next careful cut four slits in the base for the belts. We recommend two belts but one top belt can work too. We used camping stapes for the belts with fast release clips to making taking the tail on and off easy.  Here is another design that we borrowed elements from.

detail of a cosplay, wooden, flexible tail.

Next punch two holes in the base for the bolts to secure the L-braces. The L-braces will attach the tail to the belt. Use big washers when attaching the L-braces to prevent them from twisting into the duct-tape.

A cosplay, wooden, flexible tail being assembled.

Now, attach the tail using four wood screws. Use small screws and drill guide holes, you do not want to split the wood.

Top view of a cosplay, wooden, flexible tail.

Finally, add two rubber bands at the base to give it some life, and your tail is ready!

Back of a cosplay, wooden, flexible tail.

Here is a back view showing how the base looks when completed.

Two cosplay, wooden, flexible tails side by side.

Here are both dragon tails completed!

Happy Creating!

Carved Wooden Seals

As presents for our teachers last year, we decided to make a series of wooden seals. We chose cats because of their iconic shape, and because of our own cat. We prefer using a Japanese saw because it gives us a clean cut and is much easier to use.

Please note, that this material is provided for informational purposes only and is not a guide on how to create the designs. Please read our disclaimer.

Making Wooden Seals

To get the basic cat shape we do rough cuts with the saw, then use a craving tool to clean up the edges. The make sure the vice does not cut into the wood we used scrape from an old pair of jeans.

Making Wooden Seals

To get the ears we need to create a negative space between the slanted edges we just cut. The do this we first cut several slots making sure to stop just short of the end of the slanted edge. You do not want got beyond that point or the ears will more like bunny ears than cat ears.

Making Wooden Seals

You want to have several slots cut to to make removing them easy. If the slots are too thick when you try to pop them out (the next step you could instead break off the ears.

Making Wooden Seals

Once we have cut the slots we use a chisel to pop them off. Make sure to go slow and start with the center slot. When you pop off the ones next to the ears make sure to have the flat edge of the chisel pointed towards the ear. Most of the time this works like a charm but sometimes the wood refuse to cooperate. If this happens to you try you best then try using other tools like a flat head screw driver. Worst case use the chisel to cut the out and if nothing works just start over.

Making Wooden Seals

Then we used the chisel to clean up the rough parts between the ears. Two of the seals in this batch had slots that broke off half way making the clean up job a bit hard. Go slot and do not use force. If the chisel is sticking it is either at the wrong angle or you are trying to carve out too much in one go.

Making Wooden Seals

We use a rasp to finish it out.  You can use sand paper as well but we like how you can shape thing with a rasp.

Making Wooden Seals

Next we used a spoke shave to round the edges of the square dowel to make it more cat-like. Again, do not force the tool. Just use a gentile motion while applied light pressure. If you use too much force you can cut into the wood.

Making Wooden Seals

Then sand to get the finished look. Remember to take the time to sand it right. After all the work it took to get here you do not want to spoil it by not having a clean surface for painting.

Making Wooden Seals

For a finishing touch we made a cut all the way around the seal to create a neck for the cat, We made sure the cut was not too deep and went evenly all the way around the body.

Making Wooden Seals

We then used a craving tool to widened the curve being careful not to cut too much out.

Making Wooden Seals

Here is a line up of all six seals ready for painting!

Making Wooden Seals

For each wooden seal we picked three different colors to create a unique theme. We used acrylic paint for these seals but you can us wood stain or oil paint if you prefer.

Making Wooden Seals

This one reminded us of lava!Making Wooden Seals

We painted the layers over time to make sure each color stood out and did not blend in with the rest too much.

Making Wooden Seals

All six seals with their paint jobs finished!

Making Wooden Seals

The seal for the wooden seals was made of an eraser.  We used wood carving tools to engrave them. Make sure you do a reverse image of what you want printed!

Making Wooden Seals

Here are the seals bases with their wooden carvings.Making Wooden Seals

We attached the eraser to the wooden seal using hot glue. Make sure to score the bottom of the wood seal and the eraser so you get a strong bound.

 

Happy Creating!